5 Tips for Curing Winter Skin, From a Cult Facialist

First appeared in the NY Times, Style Section

The cult facialist Kristina Holey, whose holistic approach to skincare favors healthy eating habits (eating well, exercising, sleeping) over a medicine cabinet full of topical antidotes, might be the beauty industry's worst nightmare. Her modus operandi - that there is no universal rule for the skin, and each person requires a unique regimen- rejects the idea of any products touted as a quick fix cure - all. Yet it is this long-term strategy towards skincare that has seen Holey become San Francisco's most sought-after facialist.

"There is nothing black and white about skin. People ask me all the time to make a list of what's bad and what's good, but it doesn't work that way," says Holey, who studied cosmetic formulation and perfumery composition in Paris at Versailles' Institut Superieru International du Parfum, de la Cosmetique et de L'Aromatique Alimentaire (ISIPCA) before holding an apprenticeship with the renowned Parisian skin expert Joelle Ciocoo. "What's good for you might be bad for me. It's about looking at the whole picture. There are so many details involved in having good skin and it is very important to take the whole body into consideration when tackling a symptom."

Before deciding on a treatment plan, Holey examines each client's diet, current skincare regimen and lifestyle. And her approach changes with the season. In winter, she focuses on reducing redness and puffiness by building up the skin's protective barrier, made up of fatty acids and oils. Holey says nutritional deficiencies are usually to blame: "Malabsorption of important nutrients will not allow your body to produce this beautiful layer of oils to protect the skin." To correct this, Holey regularly teams up with the holistic healthy nutritionist and founder of Buckwheet to Butter, Jenn Taylor, to create a Seven-Day Reset meal plan for each change of season. The goal is to effectively eliminate inflammatory foods "or anything that could be causing digestive irregularities or stress on the body."

The nourishing, week-long program avoids alcohol, caffeine, dairy, processed sugar, wheat, gluten, soy, processed vegetable oils, and processed foods - and instead pushes seasonal fresh vegetables and fruits, high-quality fats, organic animal proteins and non-gluinous grains. "It not only makes you feel great and keeps the skin balanced, but it also promotes self-awareness," she says. "It allows you to really understand how certain foods make you feel and what they can do to your skin."  Here, she shares some of her plan's founding principals, - among them, dedication and patience - and offers tips on how to maintain optimal digestion, and therefore flawless skin, during winter.

Stay Warm

Start the morning with warm water and lemon, eat warm foods to keep the digestive system functioning properly - and avoid cold beverages. "How we care for the skin in the winter is how we care for the body," Holey says.

Cleanse, Not Slough

Eliminate skin-stripping products (foaming cleansers) and instead cleanse with something gentle and non-drying - to remove make-up and pollution. Exfoliating once or twice a week will also ensure the removal of dead skin cell buildup, enabling moisturizers and serums to penetrate the skin's surface.

Soothe and Moisturize

Applying products that will hydrate and calm irritated skin (Soothe line by R+F) as well as replenishing oil or cream is "really important," Holey says. During the winter, ingredients with anti-inflammatory properties are especially helpful.