As the beauty industry shifts away from retouched ad images and unrealistic ideals of a so-called perfect complexion, it's time we stopped referring to acne as "flawed skin." In fact, we should probably retire our use of the word flaw when describing any skin condition. After all, we don't call cavities "flawed teeth" or vision that's less than 20/20 "flawed eyes" — we regard these issues as part of the normal course of our health. And when you consider that 85 percent of Americans experience acne between the ages of 12 and 24, it, too, is really just part of the collective human experience.
Of course, it's human nature to also want to look our best, which is why San Francisco dermatologists Katie Rodan and Kathy Fields, cofounders of Rodan + Fields skin care, keep fighting the good fight to help us all achieve clear, radiant skin. Their mission famously began back in 1995 when they launched Proactiv, arguably the first comprehensive skin-care regimen to address breakouts. (Before its three-step system, most over-the-counter acne products were either spot treatments or astringent-soaked facial pads that sucked every last drop of moisture from your skin.)
Now, as Rodan + Fields reveal exclusively to Allure, it's once again reinventing the way we treat acne with Spotless, a new, two-step, patented-technology regimen. Using a combo of oxygen and liquefied benzoyl peroxide, it helps control acne in teens and young adults without the dryness and irritation you often get from traditional benzoyl peroxide. More good news: An update to the brand's popular Unblemish regimen for adult acne now includes additional soothing and brightening ingredients for the ultimate radiance boost.
But the big headliner is Spotless, which was born out of two key findings: the first being that young people today have a shorter attention span than they did back in 1995. "We learned from Proactiv that three steps is too many, especially for teens," says Rodan. "If you don't keep it simple, no one uses it."
The second finding took a little more research to uncover. Rodan + Fields examined how the microbiome — the bacterial colony that lives on skin's surface — plays a role in acne. "We used to think acne was caused by sticky oil plugging up skin's pores and the P. acnes bacteria — which causes breakouts and is naturally in everyone's microbiome — feeding off that plug and overpopulating," says Rodan. "Turns out, that's not the whole story."
Here's the newly discovered plot twist: When the microbiome is on your skin's surface, it's bathed in oxygen. But as it travels down into the pores where oxygen is scarce, the O2-starved P. acnes experience an Incredible Hulk type of transformation, shifting from harmless, mild-mannered bacteria into the angry, destructive kind that kill all the other bacteria around them. This haywire scenario triggers your body's inflammatory response — resulting in zits.
To put the brakes on this blemish-producing cycle, Rodan + Fields rejiggered a tried-and-true acne fighter: benzoyl peroxide. "We know it's the best treatment for killing acne bacteria and unclogging pores, but it's notoriously irritating," says Fields. "Plus, the typical crystal BP molecule has trouble penetrating past skin's surface down into the pores where it needs to be to do its job."
Spotless features the next generation of benzoyl peroxide. Called BPO2 technology and exclusive to Rodan + Fields, it's a stabilized, liquid form of benzoyl peroxide that travels past the microbiome deep into pores, causing less irritation and dryness while being a whole lot more effective. At the same time, oxygen — another antimicrobial — is whooshed into pores to stop the P. acnesfrom shifting into Hulk destructive mode. "This two-step approach accomplishes more than just traditional benzoyl peroxide alone," says Fields. "Getting oxygen down into the pores normalizes the microbiome there, which, in turn, stops the inflammatory response that leads to pimples."
What's equally remarkable is that Spotless does this all in two quick steps: The Daily Acne Wash is a gently exfoliating, 5 percent benzoyl peroxide cleanser that cuts through oil and other surface film to prep skin for receiving the Acne Clearing Treatment. That dual-chamber bottle delivers the powerful BPO2 technology along with hydrating glycerin and soothing bisabolol, allantoin, and blueberry to reduce inflammation.
According to the cofounders, this two-step regimen is designed to work on mild to moderate acne in teens and young adults and should be used twice a day, followed by a sunscreen in the morning. (We like the Best of Beauty Award-winning Supergoop Unseen Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 40. Both dermatologists emphasize that you need to continue using the system even after your acne improves to maintain clear skin and that the products, which were tested across a wide variety of skin tones, are safe on everyone.
In an eight-week clinical and consumer study of twice-daily use of both Spotless products by teens and young adults, 100 percent of participants — yep, every single person — experienced a reduction in blemish size and visible redness after just one week. After eight weeks, 97 percent saw an improvement in their overall inflammatory acne and 90 percent had skin that was clearer, smoother, and less shiny. (The doctors are presenting their clinical data on BPO2 technology at the 2019 American Academy of Dermatology annual meeting in March.)
For those of you past young-adulthood, Rodan + Fields has something new for you, too. Also launching is a newly updated version of the brand's hugely popular Unblemish regimen for adult acne. "The two big changes are that the Unblemish Acne Treatment Sulfur Wash is now exfoliating, which our consumers kept requesting," says Rodan. "The second is that we added more brightening, soothing, and nourishing ingredients such as vitamins B and C, hyaluronic acid, and allantoin to the system's other products to give adults the most comprehensive approach to acne."
Though the revamped Unblemish doesn't include the brand's BPO2 technology (that specifically targets the oiliness and thick outer layer of teenage skin), the products still feature the system's signature triple whammy of all-star acne busters: benzoyl peroxide, colloidal sulfur, and salicylic acid.
Reflecting on both of the launches, Fields says, "Katie and I really understand what causes and reduces acne, so with Spotless, we're now breaking out into the teen category."
"Hold on — let's not say we're breaking out!" says Rodan, with a laugh at the double entendre. "It's more like we're breaking through and redefining what acne treatments can do at every single age."
The Rodan + Fields Spotless two-step treatment system is $89 at rodanandfields.com.
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